Labarai da Jarida

Sid Vicious ba zai taɓa gaskata yawan ƙimar tsoffin tufafinsa ba kuma masu yin jabun za su yi iyakacin ƙoƙarinsu don yin karya.
Ba da dadewa ba, masanin tarihi na al'adun gargajiya na London Paul Gorman, marubucin The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren: A Biography, da Rock Fashion auctioneer Paul Gorman ya sami wani yanki na Marr.Rigar Malcolm McLaren.Tambarin Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood, kusan 1977, don kimantawa.
An yi shi daga muslin kuma yana da wani hoto mai iya ganewa nan take daga mai zane Jamie Reid don hannun rigar Jima'i Pistols '' Anarchy in the UK '' guda.
Idan gaskiya ne, za a sami farashi mai kyau a gwanjo. A gwanjon Bonhams a watan Mayu, 1977 Mr. McLaren da Ms. Westwood rigar parachute aka sayar da su akan dala 6,660, tare da wata rigar mohair baƙar fata da ja da ba kasafai aka yi mata ado da kokon kai ba. crossbones da "Jima'i Pistols" Babu Future "Lyrics" sayar da $8,896.
Sai dai Mista Gorman bai gamsu cewa rigar da yake tantancewa ita ce mai ita ba.
"Musulmi ya tsufa a wasu wurare," in ji Mista Gorman. "Amma a wani wuri, masana'anta har yanzu sabo ne.Tawada ba ingancin shekarun 1970 ba ne kuma bai yada cikin masana'anta ba."Da aka tambaye shi game da abin da ya faru, mai siyar ya janye guntun daga gidan gwanjo ya ce an sayar da shi a asirce. "Akwai irin wannan riga daya kawai a cikin tarin gidan kayan gargajiya," in ji Gorman, "kuma ina ganin hakan ma abin tambaya ne."
Barka da zuwa duniyar ban mamaki kuma mai fa'ida ta fake punk.A cikin shekaru 30 da suka gabata, yin riya cewa an yi shi da hannu tare da ƙirar asali da ta haɗa da S-da-M da zane mai datti, sabbin yankewa da madauri, samfuran rarar soja, tweeds da latex - Sid Vicious da takwarorinsa a cikin Anarchy Abin da ya shahara a zamanin akida - ya zama masana'antar haɓaka.
"Ina samun imel da yawa kowane wata ina tambayar ko wani abu na gaske ne," in ji Steven Philip, wani masanin adana kayan tarihi, mai tara kaya kuma mai ba da shawara." Ba zan shiga hannu ba.Mutane suna sayen zinariyar wawaye.Kullum akwai karya 500 na gaske."
Tsawon rabin karni, Mista McLaren da Ms Westwood sun bude kantin sayar da kayan gargajiya, Let It Rock, a 430 King's Road, London. Shagon, wanda a yanzu ake kira Worlds End, shine wurin haifuwar kayan gargajiya na titi. Masu mallakarsa sune masu zanen kaya waɗanda suka bayyana yanayin fanka.
A cikin shekaru 10 da suka biyo baya, kantin ya rikide zuwa Jima'i da Masu Tada zaune tsaye, yana gabatar da kamanni da sauti wanda ke da tasiri mai nisa don haka yana da yawa. na "Vivienne Westwood Catwalk." "Lokacin samar da su gajere ne, tufafin suna da tsada, kuma mutane sukan saya su sa su har sai sun rabu."
Dior da Fendi darektan zane-zane, Kim Jones, yana da yawan aiki na asali kuma ya yi imanin cewa "Westwood da McLaren sun kirkiro tsarin tufafi na zamani.Sun kasance masu hangen nesa,” in ji shi.
Yawancin gidajen tarihi kuma suna tattara waɗannan abubuwa. Michael Costiff, mai zaman jama'a, mai zanen ciki da mai kula da Archives na Duniya don Dover Street Stores, abokin ciniki ne na farko na Mista McLaren da Ms. Westwood. Kayayyakin 178 da ya tara tare da matarsa, Gerlinde, yanzu suna cikin tarin gidan kayan tarihi na Victoria da Albert, wanda ya sayi tarin Mr Costiff a 2002 akan £42,500 daga Asusun Tattara Kayan Fasaha na Kasa.
Darajar McLaren na da Westwood ya sa su zama manufa ga 'yan fashi na zamani.A mafi mahimmancin matakin, ana samun kwafi akan layi kuma ana sayar da su kai tsaye da arha, ba tare da yaudara ba - kawai zane-zanen da aka sani akan t-shirt mai sauƙi.
"Wannan yanki ya fito ne daga asali a duniyar fasaha," in ji Paul Stolper, wani ɗan wasan gallerist na London wanda tarin tarin ayyukan punk na asali a yanzu yana cikin Gidan Tarihi na Fasaha. Hoto ko biyu daga wani lokaci, kamar Che. Guevara ko Marilyn, yana ƙarewa ta hanyar al'adunmu.Pistols na Jima'i suna bayyana wani zamani, don haka ana sake yin hotuna akai-akai. "
Sannan akwai fakes da suka fi fitowa fili, kamar T-shirt 'Ya'yan itace mai arha mai ɗauke da gicciye Mickey Mouse, ko guntun wando na "SEX na asali" na $190 daga A Store Robot a Tokyo waɗanda ke sauƙin ganewa a matsayin wanda ba na asali ba, Saboda sabon masana'anta da gaskiyar cewa wannan salon ba a taɓa yin shi da gaske a cikin shekarun 1970. Kasuwar Jafananci ta cika da fakes.
A bara, Mista Gorman ya samo wata riga mai suna "Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt" a kan eBay a Birtaniya, wanda ya saya a matsayin nazari akan £ 100 (kimanin $ 139).
“Misali ne mai ban sha’awa na jabu,” in ji shi.” Ba a taɓa wanzuwa ba.Amma ƙarin taken 'Rushewa' da harin ƙoƙarin yin amfani da halayen zane mai ban sha'awa da aka nuna ta hanyar da ba ta dace da al'adu ba ta jagoranci hanyar McLaren da Westwood.Ina amfani da ƙwararru Masu bugawa sun tabbatar da cewa tawada na zamani ne, kamar yadda ɗinkin T-shirt ɗin yake.”
Matashiyar Mr McLaren, Young Kim, ta yi aiki tuƙuru tsawon shekaru don kiyaye gadonsa da gadonsa. "Na je gidan tarihi na Metropolitan a 2013 don duba tarin su," in ji Ms. King. "Na yi mamakin gano cewa mafi yawansu. karya ne.Tufafin asali ƙanana ne.Malcolm ya sa su dace da shi da Vivienne.Yawancin tufafi a Met sun kasance manya kuma sun dace da pre-punks na yau. "
Akwai wasu alamu. "Suna da tweed guda biyu da wando na fata, waɗanda ba su da yawa kuma na gaske," in ji Ms King.Dinka yana kan saman kugu, ba a ciki ba, kamar yadda zai kasance akan rigar da aka yi da kyau.Kuma D-ring ɗin sabo ne. "
Ayyukan da aka yi a cikin nunin 2013 na Met's "Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture" ya ja hankalin jama'a bayan da Ms. King da Mr. Gorman suka yi sharhi a bainar jama'a game da zargin karya da kuma yawancin rashin daidaituwa na wasan kwaikwayon.
Amma akwai tambayoyi game da aikin da ya shiga gidan kayan gargajiya shekaru takwas da suka wuce. Misalan sun haɗa da rigar bautar da aka nuna a cikin 2006 "Anglomania" show, wanda aka danganta ga mai sayar da kayan tarihi na London Simon Easton, da kuma na Westwood da McLaren haya kamfanin Punk. Pistol Collection, wanda ya ba da masu salo da masu shirya fina-finai, da 2003, Mista Stone na Iraqi da abokin kasuwancinsa, Gerald Bowey, sun kafa gidan kayan gargajiya a kan layi.
"A cikin 2015, guda biyu na McLaren-Westwood a cikin tarinmu an yanke shawarar zama karya ne," in ji Andrew Bolton, babban mai kula da Cibiyar Kayayyakin Kayayyakin Gari." Daga baya aka dawo da ayyukan.Binciken mu a wannan fanni yana ci gaba da gudana.
Mista Gorman ya aika wa Bolton sakwanni da dama inda ya ce sauran ayyukan da ke cikin jerin suna da matsala, amma Mista Gorman ya ce Mista Bolton bai sake ba shi amsa ba.Mai magana da yawun Cibiyar Kayayyakin Kayayyakin Kayayyakin Kayayyakin Kayayyakin ta ce kwararu ne suka duba guntuwar fiye da sau daya. Bolton ya ƙi bayar da wani ƙarin sharhi don wannan labarin.
Mista Easton, wanda ba zai ce uffan ba game da wannan labarin, ya ce ta hanyar imel cewa Mista Bowie yana magana da shi, amma ba za a iya goge sunansa ba a cikin labarin jabu. mutane da yawa suna ɗauka a matsayin ingantaccen tushen kayan tarihi don ƙirar McLaren na asali da Westwood.
Sai dai Mista Bowie ya ce duk da kokarin da suka yi na tabbatar da tarin kayan, “Hanyar rashin hankali da aka samar da su, aka samar da kuma sake sake su ya kawo cikas.A yau, har ma da jerin gwanjon kasida, rasidu da kuma a wasu lokuta daga takaddun shaida na Westwood, waɗannan riguna har yanzu suna da rigima."
A ranar 9 ga Satumba, 2008, an fara sanar da Mr. McLaren girman zamba da ya dabaibaye shi da Ms. Westwood ta hanyar imel da ba a bayyana sunansa ba da Mista Gorman ya aika don wannan labarin kuma Ms. Kim ta tabbatar da hakan.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Bayan rahotanni, 'yan sanda sun kai samame gidaje a Croydon da Eastbourne, inda suka gano jerin sunayen masu tayar da hankali," in ji imel ɗin.Maraba da Mista Grant Howard da Mista Lee Parker. "
Grant Champkins-Howard, yanzu DJ ne a karkashin sunan Grant Dale, da Lee Parker, mai aikin famfo, an yi musu shari'a a Kotun Kingston Crown a watan Yuni 2010, in ji mai shari'a Susan Matthews.Su “maƙaryata ne na tsohuwar zamani.” Lallai an kai samame a cikin 2008 a cikin 2008 ta Ƙungiyar Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararru da Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararru na McLaren da Westwood da kuma kayan da ke da alaka da su, da kuma 120 na jabu na Banksy.
Daga baya an samu mutanen biyu da laifin karya ayyukan Banksy.Mr.McLaren, kadai mahaliccin ainihin tufafin Jima'i da masu zaman kansu da ke son bayar da shaida, an nemi ya bincika abubuwan da aka kama kuma ya nuna alamun cewa tufafin na bogi ne: girman da ba daidai ba na haruffan stencil, yadudduka da ba su dace ba, amfani da YKK maimakon walƙiya masu zippers. .
"Ya fusata," in ji Ms King. "Ya ji sosai game da kariya da kare aikinsa.Yana da daraja a gare shi.”Bayan da dangantakar da ke tsakanin Mista McLaren da Ms Westwood ta wargaje a shekarar 1984, an dade ana takun saka tsakanin su biyun Ba a taba warware takaddamar ba, kuma tashe-tashen hankulan ya haifar da rashin kwanciyar hankali ga masu yin jabun.
An yanke wa Mista Howard da Parker hukuncin dakatarwa a shari’ar Bankuna, amma an soke shari’ar tufafin jabun lokacin da Mista McLaren ya mutu a shekarar 2010 saboda ya kasance babban shaida ga masu gabatar da kara a fagen.
Koyaya, ya bayyana cewa dangin Ms Westwood na iya ƙirƙira ko kuma rura wutar masana'antar ta bogi ba da gangan ba.” Na yi taƙaitaccen bugu na wasu ƙira na farko don tara kuɗi don ƙaddamar da Agent Provocateur,” in ji Joe Corré, ɗan Mista McLaren da Ms. Westwood, wanda ya bude nasa rigar a cikin kasuwancin 1994.
"Mun sake kirkiro T-shirt na kashin kaji da T-shirt 'Venus'," in ji Mista Corré. "An lakafta su a matsayin nau'i mai iyaka, an samar da su a cikin ƙananan adadin 100, sa'an nan kuma an sayar da su ga kasuwar Japan. .”Kafin waɗannan kwafi dalla-dalla da tsada, sake fasalin ayyukan sun iyakance ga fitattun siliki na siliki akan bugu na T-shirts, saurin samarwa yana da sauri, kuma farashin yana da arha sosai.
Mista Corré ya ce Vivienne Westwood ta ba da lasisin haifuwar.Mr.McLaren ya fusata.A cikin imel mai kwanan wata 14 ga Oktoba 2008 zuwa ga wata ƙungiya ciki har da ɗan jarida Steven Daly, Mista McLaren ya rubuta: “Wanene ya basu damar yin wannan?Na gaya wa Joe ya tsaya nan da nan ya rubuta masa .Na yi fushi.”
Mista Corré, wanda kwanan nan ya zama darekta na Gidauniyar Vivienne, “tana amfani da haƙƙin mallaka na aikinta a hanyar jinƙai don tara kuɗi don dalilai daban-daban.”Ya ce zai binciki yadda za a "kashe" jabun. Ms King ta ci gaba da gwagwarmaya don gadon Mista McLaren kuma ya yi imanin cewa ana shafe shi akai-akai daga tarihin kansa.
Kasuwancin bindigar punk na Mista Easton da Mista Bowey na ci gaba da siyar da Ms. Westwood da aikin Mr. McLaren ta hanyar kantin sayar da Etsy SeditionariesInTheUK, yawancinsu suna ɗauke da wasiƙar takaddun shaida daga Kamfanin Vivienne Westwood, wanda Murray Blewett ya sanya hannu, tsarawa da adanawa. Waɗannan sun haɗa da rigunan riguna tare da kwalaben Peter Pan da faci na siliki na Karl Marx, da jaket ɗin auduga da aka yi wa Lawi wahayi.
Intanet ba ta da tsauri kamar yawancin gidajen gwanjo, kuma ba za su yi tsokaci kan wannan labarin ba, amma sun ce suna wakiltar ayyuka ne kawai tare da tabbatar da harsashi, watau hotunan mai sanye da kayan a shekarun 1970s.
"Yana da mahimmanci a fahimci cewa yawancin wadanda abin ya shafa na jabu suna son wadanda abin ya shafa," in ji Mista Gorman.Wannan shine abin da ake nufi da salon, ko ba haka ba?Duk sha’awa ce ke tafiyar da ita.”